Posts tagged router
If you’re not getting the range you want from your home or office wireless network, there are many ways you can go about expanding your coverage. In this guide we’ll discuss some of the most popular methods, many of which involve upgrading and purchasing new gear (always a fun topic). Before you spend a cent, make sure to check out our tips on how to fix your Wi-Fi network to see how you may be able to get better Wi-Fi coverage from changing your router’s channel or placement. if those tips don’t do the trick, keep reading for a few more specific ways to extend the range of your wireless network.
Wi-Fi products are designed to meet specific standards (set by the IEEE) so that devices from different vendors will work with one another. the popular standards developed thus far (from oldest to newest) are: 802.11b, 802.11g, 802.11n, and 802.11ac. so if you have an older wireless b or g router, consider replacing it with a newer wireless n or ac device that offers longer ranges and faster connection speeds. With either wireless n or ac, you’ll see anywhere from a slight increase of range to a doubling or more of speeds from a device operating on an older standard. though wireless n and ac routers may not significantly increase the range of your wireless network, you should at least get better speeds at longer distances.
Wireless n routers like this D-Link DHP-1320 are faster and have greater range than routers using older wireless standards.
To figure out what sort of device you own, you ought to be able to see what standard your router uses just by looking at it. You might find a b, g, or n somewhere on it or in the model number. if that’s not the case, search for your model number online to see its exact specifications. if the router was given to you by your Internet service provider or the Wi-Fi is integrated into the ISP’s modem/gateway, you may have to call your service provider and ask what Wi-Fi standard your device uses. if your ISP won’t help you upgrade, then it’s probably time to upgrade your Internet service provider.
If you have a router that uses the b or g standard, you should upgrade at least a wireless n router; if your Wi-Fi is in fact integrated with your service provider’s modem/gateway, consider purchasing your own (much better) router and hooking it up to the ISP’s modem/gateway to increase the range of your wireless network.
The wireless b, g, n, and ac standards are all backward-compatible with each other. so if you buy a new wireless N or AC router, all your computers and devices should still be able to connect. but you won’t get the maximum range and performance from the newer router unless your computers and devices are also using the same Wi-Fi standard. Take a quick inventory of all your computers and other network-ready devices (or at least those that need the furthest range) and check their Wi-Fi standard; consider upgrading their adapters if any are using an older standard than the one your router is using.
Of course, depending on the devices you own, figuring out what wireless standard they’re using can be tricky. the Wi-Fi standard on PCs and laptops is usually listed in the name of the wireless network adapter: Open the Control Panel and navigate to Network Settings > Network Connections to check on your adapter. For iPads, tablets, and smartphones, check the specifications from the documentation or look online.
If your computer or device is using an older Wi-Fi standard you have a few upgrade options
The simplest upgrade you can make for any PC or laptop is usually to buy a cutting-edge USB wireless adapter, and then just plug it into a USB port. when shopping for a USB adapter for a desktop PC, consider purchasing one with a wire so you can place the adapter (and the antenna within) in an optimum spot. Of course, laptop owners should probably consider buying a shorter USB adapter so that it doesn’t stick out too much.
For desktop-PC owners, another option is to buy a PCI wireless adapter that you install inside your PC case (assuming you’re comfortable opening it up). when shopping for a PCI adapter, consider buying the antenna extension kit, if the vendor offers it, so you can place the antenna in an optimum spot.
For laptops that have a PC Card slot, another option is a PC Card wireless adapter that you simply slide into the slot.
Most wireless routers and wireless adapters that have external antennas come with cheap omnidirectional antennas (those that send the signals equally in all directions). Replacing those cheap omnidirectional models with higher-gain antennas (those that concentrate the signals in a specific direction) can help increase your Wi-Fi range, especially if you have a home or office that’s narrow and extends predominantly in one direction from the router’s location. if that’s the case, consider purchasing any higher-gain antennas that the vendor recommends for your particular router and/or wireless adapters. if you prefer to do (and make) things yourself, consider building your own—as explained in our previous guide on how to extend your wireless network with a parabolic reflector.
DIY types can try their hand at mounting a homemade reflector onto their router.
If you want to double or even triple your wireless network range, you can try adding additional wireless access points (APs) to the network. the traditional and generally more reliable way is to buy access points and run ethernet cables from your router to each additional AP, a process we’ll discuss later. but if you don’t already have ethernet ports around your home or office, you can try utilizing your existing cable or electrical outlets instead.
To use your cable outlets, look into products certified by MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance); or, for electrical outlets, consider Powerline products certified by HomePlug. Both types of technology work in a similar fashion: You plug an adapter into an electrical/cable outlet and connect it to the router, bridging your network to the electrical/cable lines (or you can buy a router with a built-in adapter). if that works for your network, you can plug additional adapters into different electrical/cable outlets throughout the home or office and connect them via an ethernet cable to a computer or a wireless AP. if that’s not feasible, you can also buy an adapter with a built-in wireless AP and use it to extend your network.
If you want to try this method, we recommend MoCA adapters from D-Link and Actiontec or HomePlug routers and adapters from TRENDnet, D-Link, Linksys or ZyXEL.
Another way to significantly increase your Wi-Fi coverage (often by up to 40 percent) is to add a wireless repeater or range extender. You should place this repeater at the outer (but good) range of your existing router’s coverage and it should repeat the network signals between the existing router and any Wi-Fi computers and devices that wirelessly connect to the repeater. the problem with this approach is that it significantly reduces the network speeds for those Wi-Fi computers and devices connecting via the repeater. nevertheless, this performance reduction may be acceptable if you only plan to do basic Web browsing on those computers; you won’t have much fun transferring large file transfers or streaming video between your computers on the network.
The most reliable—but usually the most difficult—way to extend your Wi-Fi coverage by double or more is to wire in additional wireless access points (APs). this method is similar to using HomePlug or MoCA adapters, but it usually offers better connection speeds and performance. however, it requires running an ethernet cable from the router to each additional AP. so if your home or building isn’t already wired with ethernet jacks, this can be quite an involved project.
When shopping for an AP, keep in mind it is different from a wireless router. You only need one router in a home or building, so purchase an AP instead of a router when you want to extend your Wi-Fi coverage. the router is basically the network controller, and it hooks up to your Internet modem or is integrated with it. An AP doesn’t include any network control capabilities; it connects to the back of a router to simply provide additional wireless access. good luck!
Since my last post on the basics of home networking, which is Part 1 of this series, I’ve been flooded with even more e-mails than I had been before (which explains why some of you haven’t heard back from me). The good news is that nobody is asking about what a router is anymore. I guess I did an OK job explaining that in my previous post.
Most of the e-mails this time asked about how to have the best Wi-Fi coverage at home and avoid “dead zones.” A reader even asked me how to make his Wi-Fi network better than his neighbor’s because the other network’s Wi-Fi signal and Internet speed were “so much faster than mine.” Well, I am not a fan of rat races, and you’re not supposed to tap into your neighbor’s Wi-Fi network unless you both explicitly share an Internet connection, in which case you shouldn’t be complaining that the network is so good.
Also it’s not exactly a good thing that your Wi-Fi’s range goes so far away from your home, either; that only increases the unnecessary interference for your neighborhood (and your network’s chance of getting tapped into). in short, you should just focus on yours.
And along those lines, there are a few ways to make sure you get the best out of your Wi-Fi network. With some, you just need to do a little bit of tweaking; with others, depending on your home, you might need to get extra equipment.
Let’s start with the ways that probably won’t cost you anything, other than a little bit of time.
1. Placement Location: A wireless router (from here on in this post, it will be addressed as “router” for short) broadcasts Wi-Fi signals away from it in all directions. think of the signal coverage as a globe with the router being right in the center. Outside of this globe, clients won’t get a signal. this globe, however, is not exactly spherical; one of the reasons is because the signals are generally turned to go out more horizontally than vertically, and like all radio signals, they tend to spread laterally and downward the farther they are from the broadcaster. That said, the best place to place your wireless router or access point is in the center of your home and elevated.
To take advantage of this, use the telephone jack (or coax cable outlet) at or near the center of the house, preferably on the upper floor when applicable, to connect to your modem and then your router. If need be, hire an electrician to create a new outlet in the right place. If it’s not possible to move the phone jack or run coax cable to where you want, use a long network cable to connect the router to the modem, leaving the modem where the jack is and the router/access point at the center of the house. (In my experience, it’s actually quite easy to run cables above the ceiling, or under the house).
Surroundings: A wireless signal works best outdoors in an open environment. since it’s not possible to have that indoors, you can improve the signal a great deal by making sure the immediate surroundings of the router/modem are clear, especially in the directions you want the signals to reach. this means you don’t want to leave the router in a closet, or put it between a big TV and a wall. The best place to leave the router is in midair, but since that’s quite hard to do, the second best thing is to put it on the surface of a desk, or mount it on the wall when applicable. Generally, all physical objects, such as walls, glass doors, and so on, weaken Wi-Fi signals, some more than others.
Antenna positioning: With a router that comes with external antennas, you can slightly tweak the above-mentioned globe of coverage. Generally you want the antennas to stay vertical if you want the signal to go wide (which is the most popular usage). If want the signal to go deep into the basement and up to the top floor, set the antennas to stay horizontal. Note that this only works relatively, and with some routers, you might not experience any difference at all whichever way you set its antennas. If the antennas are detachable, it’s likely that you can replace them with high-gain antennas (most of the time this means bigger ones), which noticeably helps increase coverage. (You might also be able to increase the power of the antennas, hence the range, by attaching to it a piece of aluminum foil curled up into a parabolic shape.)
For routers with an internal antenna design, there’s nothing you can do. Modern routers, especially N750, N900, and 802.11ac routers, however, generally come with very powerful and smart antennas that essentially increase their power toward the direction of connected clients automatically, using a technology called beamforming.
2. EquipmentNow that you have placed your router properly and still don’t find enough improvement, it’s time to check the equipment. get ready to spend some money.
Router: Ideally you just want to have one wireless broadcaster at home and for most homes, a single router is good enough. That said, if you have a small house and the router (put in the middle) can’t cover every corner, it’s time to consider replacing it. I’d recommend at least an N600 router (check out this list) or if you’re not on a budget, get one of the best routers on the market on this recently updated top 5 list.
Access point: A separate access point is an ideal solution for a large and sprawling home, one that you can’t put the router in the center, or one with a deep basement, with an existing router. Basically, you want to put the second access point at the location where the signal of the existing router can’t reach or gets really weak. A typical example of this setup is where you have the main router in the living room and the second access point in the basement.
Now the trick is to connect the access point to the router. Ideally, you want to run a network cable from the router to the access point (you want to connect the access point’s LAN port to one of the router’s LAN ports). If this is too much of a job, you can resort to power-line networking.
Editors’ note: many routers can also work as an access point and will indicate this in its list of features. in this case the router’s WAN port will work as a LAN port. in fact, for the secondary access point scenario, it’s best to use two identical routers, one as the main, and the second as an access point for the far side of the house. this way you don’t have to learn about two different devices.
Power line: A power-line adapter basically turns your home’s electrical wiring into network cables; this is more clearly explained in Part 1. in the case of the separate access point scenario above, you can use a pair of power-line adapters, such as the D-Link DHP-510AV. Connect one of the adapters to the router and the other to the access point, using network cables. after that, if you want to make your home network seamless, name the Wi-Fi network (or SSID) of the access point the same as that of the existing router. in this case, make sure you use the same security settings (encryption key, method, and so on). or you can also keep them as two separate Wi-Fi networks for easy management.
There are also power-line adapter kits with a built-in access point, called power-line range extenders, such as the Netgear XAVNB2001. in this case, you don’t need to get the second access point/router.
In addition to power line, you can also opt for a pair of MoCA adapters. MoCA stands for Multimedia over Coax Alliance, and similar to power line, turns coax cables (those used by cable TV) into network cables. MoCA adapters are great solutions for homes with multiple cable outlets in different rooms. I don’t have a lot of experience with MoCA, however, since it’s not possible to test those at my office.
Range extender/repeater: These are wireless devices that can connect to an existing Wi-Fi network and then rebroadcast that same network’s signal farther. most of these devices support Wi-Fi Protected Setup and can connect to the existing router with the push of a button; after that, you can just put one at the edge of the existing network’s Wi-Fi range and have that range increased.
I am not a fan of this type of device because of a few reasons:
First, it’s hard to gauge their effectiveness; you need to put a range extender/repeater relatively close to the existing router for it to have a good connection with the main network, but at the same time far enough for it to really extend the range. It’s very hard to find the sweet spot for it to be effective both in terms of range and connection quality.
Second, the repeater basically duplicates the existing Wi-Fi network with one of its own, and as mentioned above, Wi-Fi signals are broadcast in all directions. this means devices in the area where the two networks overlap have to deal with interference and signal saturation. this is especially bad for the 2.4Ghz band.
That said, a range extender/repeater is still the fastest way to relatively extend a Wi-Fi network’s coverage.
3. SettingsOne of the problems with Wi-Fi networks is the risk of losing your bandwidth to unauthorized users. this part helps you secure your network and optimize it for speed. Note that it’s slightly more advanced and might seem intimidating to novice users. but you will be a novice no more if you go through with it. this part is only recommended for those interested in learning more about networking.
Rule of thumb:Make sure you back up the router’s configuration settings before making changes. this allows you to restore it to previous settings in case something goes wrong.
With the exception of networking products from Apple, most, if not all, other routers and access points on the market comes with a Web interface. this means that from a connected computer, you can open up the router’s management Web page by going to its IP address. unless you have changed it, the default IP address is generally printed on the bottom of the router, or on its user guide, and tends to be in this format: 192.168.x.1.
It’s easy to find out your router’s IP address; here are the common steps to get to any home network’s router’s Web interface:
Step 1: From a connected computer (runningWindows Vista or 7), click on start button, type “cmd” in the search area, then press Enter. (If you use Windows XP, you can navigate the start Menu and run the Command Prompt item.)
Step 2: now in the black command prompt window, type in “ipconfig,” then press Enter. you will see lots of information displayed in the window. find the string of number after Default Gateway, that’s the router’s IP address.
Step 3: Type that IP address in the address bar of a browser, such asFirefox, and press Enter; now you are at the router’s Web interface. you will have to log in with an account. The username is almost always admin; for the password, check the router’s manual or ask the person who first set up the network for you.
On the Web interface, the following wireless settings will help your network stay safe:
Network name and password: most if not all routers come with a default Wi-Fi network name (or SSID) and password; you won’t want to use those. this is mostly because that reveals to advanced users which router you have and that, well, you don’t know much about networking. Changing the SSID and password to your liking also helps you remember them better.
Hide your SSID: by default all routers broadcast the Wi-Fi network name. this makes it convenient since clients can “see” them. Hiding the SSID makes your Wi-Fi network invisible to others. The only drawback is that you have to manually type it in when you want to connect a new client to it. There’s a trick for it: turn the SSID on briefly when you want to connect a new client, once that’s done, hide it again.
Use WPA 2: using the WPA 2 encryption method helps both increase the security and the speed of the Wi-Fi signal. The only catch is that WPA 2 might not be compatible with older clients. most new clients released in the past few years support WPA 2, however. you can try using WPA 2 first and if some of your clients are unable to connect, switch it back to WPA.
In addition, once you have accessed the router’s Web interface, there are many other settings that you can try. for safety, there are also MAC address filters, Internet filtering, and so on. Note that a router generally takes about a minute to restart to apply new settings.
That’s it for now; if you have more questions, put them in the comment section below or send it my way via e-mail or at my Facebook page.
The network equipment industry is huge! Not only is it virtually impossible to list all the different combinations of username and password by default in a wide range, as there are many router manufacturers to remember. every time you make a device with a set of credentials is rarely what you want, but then, almost ready to live without a guide. Or make a call from the other network of friends frantically try different combinations, hoping to find gold to give, or would like to see an article Does the user: password combinations for the most widely used network equipment.
In exercising their functions for the company, not the search for clues in this section of the network with the default password is entered so that a series of popular routers. Before proceeding to buy the standard username and password combinations, a new configuration of the router, or that changed the username and password if you use one, it would be reasonable to let you know that those who work, work. Of course, the default login information, you activate the reset of the router.
The processing industry is a great name for D-Link broadband router and the router from D-Link has a lot of administrators: a combination of open as standard input. This is the “admin” (without the quotes) to say that the key in the empty field. Password is blank, but ‘user’ a D-Link router is the default user name. 3Com and the 3Com router market is another well known name before hitting on a network with routers do not have to travel a lot. in some of the username blank and password “admin” repentance, acceptance, but some, such as routers, 3Com was the case with D-Link router, a user name and blank password “admin” is.
Something to do with this network, certainly in the top of the food chain when the Cisco. most of their Cisco routers and Cisco “Cisco” the default user name has a default password. we repeat here have all the usernames and passwords to be entered without the quotation marks have been discussed here. Some Cisco routers, a blank username and “San Francisco”, which has a password. ‘Admin’ Router Dell has a username and password by default. Linksys by Cisco and network equipment is actually a well known manufacturer of a subsidiary. Linksys routers., networks, utilities and there are thousands of offices worldwide and admin username admin and password admin for Linksys routers is the most common combinations administrator 192.168.0.1, 192.168.1.1, for 192,168 .1.225 192.168.1.246 -. The first of these two combinations are the following routers work with its default IP address a combination of code, such as an IP address from the first possible 192.168.1.251. IP router can be a default name of 192.168.1.1 combinations thereof. said input buffer by default on all routers in a position to handle well seasoned.
I'm a relative newbie at this, but it seems to me that a properly wired patch panel reverses the wires.
Typically, the 8 pins on the computer port, as you look at it, are from left to right 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8…you run a cat5 cord from that computer to a router and, from left to right on the router, the coordinated pins are 8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1. Routers expect this, no problem.
Now you go to a patch panel. you have the computer with say the blue wire on the left as you look at the port. that blue wire wants to be at pin 8 on the router (the right hand side, see above). you put it to a patch panel. Now it's on pin 8 (right side) into the patch panel. On the other end of the patch, pin 8 (right side) is still blue. you connect your cord to that with blue on the left. what was once wire 8 in the patch cord is now connected to what should be pin 1, blue. you run that to the router and now the blue wire into the router is on the right but it's not the same data because the patch panel didn't reverse them…
I'm going insane over-thinking this.
Router Wan Type: Actiontec Ethernet to Coax Adapter for Homes with Cable TV Service (ECB2500C) by Actiontec
Easily deliver high speed Internet access to every connected device. View largerActiontec Electronics ECB2500C Ethernet to Coax MoCA Adapter
The MoCA Network Adapter is a high-speed bridge that takes your coaxial network and, in conjunction with a router, delivers Ethernet networking access anywhere you have a coaxial port. Most of the leading broadband companies rely on coaxial networks in the home (network over a cable connection) because it is very fast and extremely reliable. Actiontec’s ECB2500C MoCA adapter uses the latest technology to provide you with flawless performance for your most demanding connected devices at an aggressive price point.
Note: This is a single adapter solution for Verizon FiOS users and users who already have one MoCA adapter installed. Most users will need the ECB2500C MoCA Adapter Kit which includes two adapters.*
The ECB2500C MoCA adapter delivers a strong and stable connection (up to 270Mbps**) that will allow you to experience silky-smooth streaming HD video without the lags and buffering associated with lower performance connections. the product supports QOS to manage your bandwidth, ensuring critical applications like video streaming get allocated the priority bandwidth.
The ECB2500C MoCA adapter delivers a strong and stable connection. View largerPlugs into your current cable connection, giving you flexibility in where to connect. View largerSecure to Protect Your Privacy
The ECB2500C MoCA adapter is hardware encrypted to protect your privacy. Users can also set up a password for restricted access.
Easy to Set up and Easy to Use
The ECB2500C MoCA adapter plugs into your current cable TV (coaxial) connections, giving you flexibility in where to connect, and eliminating the need for long cable pulls. it supports any Ethernet network-connected device, including cable boxes, Verizon FiOS, DVRs, Blu-ray players, DVD players, PlayStation PS3s, Xbox 360s, TiVos, PCs and more. (Satellite boxes are not supported.)
To set up the ECB2500C, just follow the four simple steps below:
Actiontec Quality and Service
Actiontec is a key supplier to leading telecom carriers, broadband and pay TV operators. Actiontec products undergo hundreds of hours of rigorous lab testing to ensure that they deliver enterprise-level performance, reliability and compatibility. all Actiontec products are backed by a full warranty, and 24/7 live technical support.
What’s in the Box?
One MoCA Network Adapter, one quick Start Guide, one Ethernet cable, two coax cables, one two-way coaxial splitter, and one power adapter.
Technical SpecificationsRF InterfaceConnector: F-typeImpedance: 75 OhmsNetwork Center Frequency Range1150 ~ 1500 MHzNetwork Frequency Range1125 ~ 1525 MHzMax Transit Power+3 dBm (52 dBmV)Link ConditionsMin Attenuation (> 250 Mbps): 10 dB minMax Attenuation (>30 Mbps): 68 dB maxMax Attenuation (> 250 Mbps): 50 dB maxNetwork Size15 Devices (including NC)Max Physical Data RateUp to 270 MbpsCoax Application Data RateUp to 175 Mbps bi-directional combinedEthernet InterfaceConnector Type: RJ45Configuration: One PortProtocol: IEEE 802.3x, 100M fast EthernetMoCA VersionMoCA 1.1Link DelayTypical: 3.5 msMax: 9 msPower RequirementPower Consumption: < 5 WattsInput Range: 100-240VAC, 50/60HzEnvironmental ConditionsAmbient Temperature Range: 0 ~ 40 degrees CelsiusStorage Temperature Range: -5 ~ 65 degrees CelsiusOperating Humidity: 10% ~ 95% Non-condensing
* This single adapter SKU is a solution for: 1) Verizon FiOS users, who already have MoCA built-in on their BHR router. In order to connect a device to the router, they would only need one ECB2500C adapter. the user should not connect anything to the TV-Out Coaxial connector on the adapter. 2) Users who already have at least one MoCA adapter installed. ** Actual data rates for all networking products are affected by a number of factors, including the load on the network and distance from the source connection. Optimum speeds may not be realized.
It’s not every day simple Wi-Fi routers make headlines by angering just about all of Internet but that is exactly what Cisco managed to do with its latest packet punting products.
Cisco introduced a new and innovative (yes, really) feature called Connect Cloud with its spruced-up home router range. That’s a nebulous name but Connect Cloud lets you shift management of the router away from the device itself, to the web so that you can get to your home network from everywhere.Also, Cisco made an app market for the routers so that developers could code useful programs that could take advantage of Connect Cloud. This is actually a pretty cool concept, although the apps are far and few between currently and mainly aimed paranoid people wanting to monitor and filter traffic.
however, the way Cisco launched Connect Cloud into this world is a case study in how not to do these things.
First, Cisco pushed out the service automatically as an update for the firmware that controls routers.
That is, Connect Cloud was installed on existing Cisco routers without anyone realising what had happened until they went to take a look at the management web page and discovered that instead of ending up at the box itself people were redirected to a site on the Internet.
in order to manage your router, you had to sign up at the Cisco Connect Cloud site. If you didn’t, it was impossible to manage the router.
That’s drastic enough, and should never happen without Cisco customers consenting to the change.
It gets worse though: if you signed up to the Connect Cloud service, the initial terms and conditions banned customers from using it “for obscene, pornographic, or offensive purposes” and also for infringing on “another’s right, including but not limited to intellectual property rights”.
The terms and conditions also said that Cisco would monitor the network traffic and Internet history of customers.
Adding insult to injury, Cisco threatened to disconnect users who didn’t comply with the harsh terms with disconnection from the Connect Cloud service.
Long story short, the whole thing blew up spectacularly as enraged Cisco customers vented their fury online.
Cisco scrambled to repair the damage and has since removed some of the offending clauses, saying they were inserted by mistake. It remains to be seen if this is enough to restore the trust Cisco lost with customers, some of which are now installing alternative firmware on their routers.
Get off my cloudThe Connect Cloud furore happened before I received my review sample of the Cisco Linksys EA4500, the current range topping home Wi-Fi router from the US networking company, and I was wondering what I’d make of it.
Let’s deal with the Connect Cloud feature first: I like the idea, but not Cisco’s implementation of it.
Having remote access to your home network across the Internet and by using Android and iOS apps is a useful idea as it brings your network to the cloud in seamless fashion. Connect Cloud needs an active Internet connection for set up however as well as a computer and don’t lose that set-up CD that comes with the EA4500. You can configure the EA4500 without it, but with Connect Cloud in the mix and separate passwords for that service and the router itself, it’s a complicated process.
Also, Connect Cloud is hosted in the United States. being that far away from New Zealand, the Connect Cloud interface is sluggish to use. The built-in speed test feature shows low results as it’s also in the US and the whole Connect Cloud service is focused on Americans.
If like many people you put the EA4500 behind a DSL modem and set the router to Bridge mode to avoid having two separate networks that can’t talk to each other, Connect Cloud gets confused and randomly thinks your Internet connection is down – in which case you have to log locally to the router instead, so don’t lose the password for the EA4500.
Normally, I never have to spend this much time with the admin interface on a router, and Cisco really needs to rethink the Connect Cloud concept.
The EA4500 is otherwise a good looking little box that provides fast throughput for wireless in the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands: I was able reach 70-75Mbps in the former band, and 120-130Mbps in the latter, good figures both.
a fast Gigabit Ethernet network switch with four LAN is also included, and a fifth Internet port is included too, which is entirely logical for the EA4500 that’s aimed at streaming high-definition video and other large files.
but, Cisco: why is the USB port for hard drives (and printers) only a 2.0 variant and not a newer 3.0 one? I could squeeze 175Mbps out of the USB 2.0 port, but USB 3.0 is much faster and better suited for the EA4500 which has a built-in media and ftp server for file sharing.
I also encountered a bug that meant my upload speed halved if I used the Internet port on the EA4500 to connect to my VDSL2 router. not using the Internet port sorted out the problem. The problem has been reported to Cisco and I’ll update the review if and when it is sorted out.
for a street price of approximately $275, the EA4500 is a premium Wi-Fi router that performs well enough, but needs some annoying foibles fixed. This includes Connect Cloud.
What’s goodNice designGood performanceFull range of features
So and soSlow-ish USB 2.0 for media serving
Oh dearConnect Cloud is not ready for prime timeSpeed limiting bug on Internet port
UPDATE, July 19: Brett Wingo, Cisco’s VP of Home Networking, on Connect Cloud issues.
By Juha Saarinen
Many people now have two computers, as to enable both to access the network, they often make use of the dual network cards to connect their computers and make them as a local area network (or LAN), which would cost much less than purchase a router. However, sometimes due to the model and the quality of these two adapters or your PC compatibility problems, they have a conflict. How can we tackle it?
Using dual NIC cards to access the network is only a temporary plan, if there is some problem when applying the double cards connection, we should consider troubleshooting it from the aspects below:
Generally when you finish installing some software, Windows prompts you to restart; sometimes you think it a troublesome and reboot the computer till all software has been installed. You’d better restart your PC when installing the first net card and then turn to set up the next one. Because when installation is over, the system not only would assign the interrupt request and the memory available resource to you network adapter, but also configure the port and the IP for it, actually it is more convenient for your PC to carry out its work by rebooting and then installing the next adapter.
Net card speed and connections
When you build the network, you should think over the communication problem between the 10/100M and 10M network adapters: when they are interconnected in two computers, you would probably find that they are not reachable across the IP network, or they are shown connected normally but you can not browse the website. such errors often happen when two net cards with different transmission speeds exchanging their data packs. to resolve this failure, you can try to contact your 10/100M network adapter to the external line and use an adapter with the same speed in the inner connection.
Wireless Cellular Router/Modem/Antenna Blog » Blog Archive » Why can not have Internet with an identified 3G Modem
Why can not have Internet with an identified 3G Modem?
Sometimes users get a usb 3g modem for the USB SOHO 3G router such as H690 series 3g router. however, it cannot dialup to be online. the following instrucation and answer may help you.
1. Before buying our 3G router, we recommend our customers to check the compatible list on our website, it could help you know whether your 3G modem is compatible with our router currently.
2. before sharing the broadband with our 3G router, please make sure that when you plug the 3G modem into your PC/Laptop, you can access the Internet on the PC/Laptop directly.
After you plug your 3G modem into the E-Lins USB SOHO 3G router, please log into 192.168.1.1 with the default username and password which are both admin. now we assume that your 3G modem can be identified by the 3G router, then you can see this picture below. here we take Huawei EC169 as an example.
If you can’t have Internet via the 3G router, it may be caused by following issues.
1. No SIM or incorrect SIM
Before you connect to the 3G network, a suited SIM and 3G modem are both a necessity. please install your SIM into the 3G modem correctly.
2. PIN Verification
Some SIM need to validate the PIN number by factory default. If so, please plug the 3G modem into your PC directly, and then disable this function in the bundled 3G modem utility. here we take two models as example.
3. Mismatched parameters
When we try to connect to the 3G network, some parameters such as Dial number, APN, Username and password are required. It is very important for us to know the correct information. If you see the following red-circled sentence in the system tools -> system log page, that means you need to ask your ISP(who provide you the 3G service) for correct information of above parameters.
After you get the correct information from your ISP, please type them into the “Network->3G” page as below picture shows.
After typing in the correct information, I am successfully connected to the Internet at once.
If there are any further problems, please feel free to contact E-Lins Support.
In the age of advanced and accessible connectivity where the internet has connected the world in a network of information, security hassles have increased manifold. with the increasing demand for routers within networks and the limited availability of unique IP addresses the creation of a unique password is a necessity for internet security. Passwords are essential components that keep your network secure with special care that is required to ensure that your network is safe from fraudsters. Nowadays, with IP logging being a fairly common method of tracing fraudsters, it is important that you keep your router secure with access restricted to authorized persons. For this purpose, it is highly advisable that one uses a customized password which cannot be easily decoded or guessed by fraudsters or hackers.
With the limited IP addresses broadband manufacturing firms use default IP addresses (mostly 192.168.1.1) to simplify configuration for consumers. The added advantage being, that since the networks are private, even if several networks use the same IP address there won’t be any problems with data connectivity. However this default IP does make it simpler for hackers or fraudulent internet users to hack into private networks and infuse spyware or malware, or reconfigure the settings to block out the home users. For this reason reconfiguring the password and username settings becomes a necessity, as it complicates the methods that hackers have to use to tap into the router / network thereby increasing security and providing you with a safe browsing experience.
Routers are devices provided by network providers to help users connect to the internet while avoiding data traffic. Unlike hubs which transfer data to every single device within the network assuming it will reach its destination, Routers, are located at the connection or gateway point and they connect Land Area Networks (LAN) to Wide Area Networks (WAN). Routers also possess translation and filtering capabilities thereby encoding and decoding the IP address in every data transfer and blocking malware prone or misdirected data packets. Routers increase security in browsing experiences as they keep the device address private by decoding and encoding it on the data packets according to necessity.
There are two types of routers manufactured by broadband companies, Wired routers connected through ethernet cables, or wireless routers. These routers not only provide access to the internet, but they also act as network switches and create wireless access points through which multiple devices can be connected within a network. they are commonly used as mentioned to provide access to the internet, or to some other computer network. they can function in wired LAN or wireless LAN (WLAN) networks. it becomes easier to connect devices such as Xboxes, Playstations and other gaming consoles through a Wi-Fi connection. it also provides connection for smartphones and devices such as iPhones and iPods. Most wireless routers have the following characteristics:
- LAN ports which function similarly to network switch ports.
- A WAN port which can connect to a wide area network, usually one with internet access. External destinations and other networks can be accessed through this port.
- Wireless antennas that allow connections to other wireless devices such as NiCs, wireless repeaters, wireless access points and wireless bridges.
- Wireless Routers also include a DSL or cable modems in addition to the other components.
Telecom Lead India: to increase its 3G subscribers, BSNL has roped in Shyam Networks, a communications solutions provider, to launch WINKNET Mf50 3G pocket router under a reverse bundling arrangement.
The launch is in line with BSNL’s target to increase its 3G subscriber base under NTP 2012. having 3G networks rolled-out in more than 960 cities across the country, BSNL claims that it is providing 3G services at one-third rate in comparison with the nearest competitor.
BSNL customers can buy Mf50 3G pocket router for Rs 5,800. the router works as a mobile hotspot device, supporting GPRS/EDGE/WCDMA/HSPA and provides internet connection with the USB interface of a computer or Wi-Fi to clients.
The new pocket router will be available to the 15 circles of the country, including 3 circles in South zone and West zone each.
Nafis Kazim, executive VP of Shyam Networks said that Winknet is positioned as a networking and connectivity product for mass market and there was growing demand for broadband. the Mf50 pocket router will help towards providing seamless broadband connectivity.
Winknet MF 50, 3G pocket router, will be a SIM locked router and will converts the data signal connection to WiFi, allowing minimum five users simultaneously to connect their WiFi enabled devices with a downloading speed of 14.4 Mbps and 5.76 of uploading speed.
While speaking on 3G networks, R.K Upadhyay, CMD of BSNL said, “BSNL is the only provider to cover North-Eastern states of the country, along with Andaman& Nikobar and Lakshadweep through satellite links. BSNL will provide 3G services to over 265000 village (gram) panchayats in the country.”
The operator said that through its wireless 3G connections, it is trying to tap the rural region of the country, where ADSL and ADSL+ connectivity is not available. However, this new pocket router will be focused on the premium customers of the operator.
Furthermore, BSNL said that it has enabled all BSNL 2G subscribers to avail 3G service. all 2G subscribers can now avail 3G services simply by activating data services of their choice.
Earlier, both companies joined forces to launch WINKNET 3G dongle for Rs 1,900 in Uttar Pradesh.